Ok, for those easily bored by the technical side of things, tune out now
Cascade: I always shoot hand held with the MP-E. I tried using a tripod and it just didn't work... for me anyway! If you had a high precision two way focus rail system (ie: left/right and forward/backward) it might work. The problem is, you're dealing with tiny amounts of depth of field.. less than 1mm at 5x mag, and trying to make those precise movements with a tripod is near impossible. Even the movements on an average focus rail are too coarse.
So, the alternative is to hand hold the lens. Shooting free-hand, 1-1 is no problem with practice, 2-1 is acheivable again with practice but from there on, it tends to be very hit and miss... far more miss than hit actually
1) A simple length of dowel, about 3cm diameter with a rubber stopper on the end. I stand the dowel vertically, wrapping a couple of finger on my left hand around it, and hold the lens with the rest of my left hand. By pushing down on the dowel, you can then increase stability. You can also freely move your hand up and the down the dowel to get the height you need. You can then tilt the dowel forward or backward to get the subject in focus. This method is good as you dont disturb the subject, but at high mags can still be a bit hit and miss, although much better than free hand holding. You also have a problem if the subject is higher than your length of dowel is tall!
2) If the subject is calm enough, I will slowly reach out with my left hand and take hold of the grass/twig/leaf on which the subject is sitting. If you move slowly and come from below the subject, it's quite amazing how often they will remain comfortable. Come from above or move quickly though and they disappear rapidly! Once I have a grip on the perch, usually about 4-5 cm from the subject, I rest the lens on top of the base of my thumb, letting it take the weight. Using my right hand, I can then slide the lens forward and backwards with great control to get the exact focus point. The beauty of this method is that once you have everthing in order, even if you move your left hand, the perch and the lens move in tandem, so the subject stays in focus! It's also a lot easier to make changes to your composition by changing the lens angle very slightly. I'd sy about 75% of my shots are taken this way and once I have hold of the perch, about 8 or 9 out of 10 shots are in focus, even at 5x mag. In all 5 of the dragonfly shots above, my fingers are just out of shot (below the frame) holding onto the twig the dragonfly is perched on. Another advantage of this method is that you are almost perfectly still once in place, rather than swaying forward and backwards trying to get anything in focus!
In terms of light and shutter speed... I always shoot in full manual with flash. I will sometimes change back to Av to see the shutter speed and early morning, at 200ISO and F13, it is often out to 2+ seconds when magnification is above about 2x. At 5x you can be looking at 10+ seconds
So, full manual and flash it is for me. I tend to shoot ISO200, F13, 1/200th. ETTL metering will then calculate the flash exposure to light the scene automatically. If it's too bright or dark, I'll simply adjust flash exposure compensation to get it right.
The difficulties with using flash are positioning it and then dealing with the harsh light it outputs.
In terms of positioning, I've rigged up a small movable bracket that lets me position the flash right near the end of the lens. This is a little more difficult with the mp-e as the lens extends as the magnification increases. It goes from about 10cm long at 1-1 to about 22cm long at 5-1! The bracket mounts to the tripod hole on the bottom of the camera and lets me push the flash forward to keep it near the end of the lens. If you don't do this, then it's almost impossible to get light onto the subject past about 3-1 magnification.
As for dealing with the harshness of flash... that can be difficult! I use a single flash (430EXII) and have created several different homemade diffusers for it. I have been following some peoples work and the testing they have done with diffusers and have based my latest setup on some of there ideas. I've made a rectangular tube that slips over the flash head out of thick cardboard. This this, I've mounted a softdrink can, by cutting the ends of, and mking slits about 2cm apart along half the length of the can. You can now flare these strips out and gaffa tape them onto the outside of the cardboard tube. On the other end of the can, Ive placed an opaque dome shaped lid off a food container (called a nudie, available from woolworths for a couple of dollars). The lid fits perfectly inside the can. Place the dome IN the can, giving you a hollow concaved surface on the end of the can. This actually focuses the light and makes it more efficient. Over the outer hollow end of dome lid, place some sort of diffusion material... I am use cottton backing from a sewing shop. Between this layer and the opaque dome lid, you are effectly softening and diffusing the light.
While this diffuser gives good results, it can be taken to the next level buy incorporating a light tent on the end of your lens. Now the fun really startes! Get a sheet of vellum paper, or proper tracing paper and double it over. Wrap this around the top half of the lens so that it sticks out about 5-7 cms from the end of the lens. You have to pick your subjects to use it on, as a lot dont like you coming near them with it!
If anyone is considering getting one of these lenses, I couldn't recommend it highly enough! Amazing peice of technology. I'll also be happy to post pics of my setup and step by step how I made the bracket/diffuser/tent.
Phew! Hope that answered the questions
Standard diffused flash. Not too bad, but note the highlights and shadows behind the head
[Different dragonfly] Diffused flash, with the light tent attached. No highlights and the shadows are now filled in





